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Mixing and Harmonizing
Istanbul is a city of acceptance, and a land of coexistence. It
was both the birthplace of the Christian Byzantine civilization
and a place where Islamic culture blossomed. The symbol of that
aesthetic of coexistence is Ayasofya. With the fall of the Byzantine
Empire, a brilliant civilization was lost, and although the Muslims
imposed their own culture, they preserved what was left so long
as it did not conflict with their own religion. In this cathedral,
murals of biblical figures create an odd harmony with inscriptions
of the names of Allah and Mohammed. Several times a day the words
of the Koran are broadcast form the mosque’s loudspeakers,
and some people stop what they are doing and head for the mosque.
Those who don’t stop to pray, however never complain about
the noise. Such is Istanbul, and such is Turkey.
Europe and Asia
Istanbul is the only city in the world that lies in both Europe
and Asia. With the Bosphorus in the middle, Istanbul is commonly
said to be divided into European Istanbul and Asian Istanbul. It
is also said to be divided into the old town and new town, separated
by the Galata Bridge. Most of the historical and cultural
remains are clustered near this bridge in the old town. As
a place where Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman Empires came in succession,
and at the end of the Silk Road, the name Istanbul has figured
in world history over and over again. This is a place where
Westerners can discover their roots while Easterners feel curiously
at home.
Into the magic of history
Istanbul is a city with a dazzling history. Its old quarter,
in particular, has been the center of history, not just for Turkey
but for the world. If you are aimlessly wandering around
the old town of Istanbul and don’ know which way to go, first
head to the Sultanahmet, the ideal starting point for a trip through
the capital of an ancient empire. Many tourists are drawn
to the old town’s Sultanahmet area, where the Sultanahmet
Mosque and Aysofya Museum face each other across a small park. While
wondering which of the two to visit first, it is worth making a
moment to sit in this park to take in the sights. You can
see the women who have come out for a stroll, or the local people
who greet visitors with a friendly smile. Even the attention
of the quaintly dressed tea vendors are amusing as they offer to
have their picture taken with visitors while carrying their tea
urns on their shoulders.
Sit back and enjoy the slow pace of life at an outdoor café,
sipping chai (tea), the everyday drink of Turkey, or tasting strong
black Turkish coffee. Take a whiff of tobacco smoke through
a water pipe and feel the fatigue of travel slip away. Enjoy
the hospitality of merchants standing outside long rows of shops,
inviting people in. It’s all right to haggle gently
with these descendants of the Silk Road traders. Centered
on Sultanahmet, the old town brings together all the leisure, pleasure,
and excitement that can be found in Istanbul.
Sultanahmet Mosque, better known by its nickname the Blue Mosque,
is one of the most famous and monumental buildings in Turkey and
in the Islamic world. Built to show the world the superiority
of Islamic culture, it is a traditional mosque partly modeled on
the architectural style of Ayasofya. Its six minarets give
in an imposing profile, and inside, the walls are covered with
more than 20,000 blue tiles - hence the nickname the Blue Mosque. To
see the tiles shining with their ethereal blue light as the sunlight
streams in through the windows, you can’t help but bow your
head in reverence. Opposite Sultanahmet Mosque stands Ayasofya,
now officially named the Ayasofya Museum, although most people
know it as the Ayasofya Cathedral. This cathedral has changed
its name with the vicissitudes of Turkey’s history, and stands
as a living witness to that history, having withstood the vortex
of time with all its might. Just by studying the history
of Ayasofya, we can understand the history of Turkey and the course
that religion has taken here.
When Istanbul – then known as Constantinople – was
conquered by Mohammed II of the Ottoman Empire, the cathedral was
transformed overnight into an Islamic mosque. The Emperor was so
enchanted by its beauty that he gave orders not to destroy it,
and the damage was restricted to such measures as covering the
original mosaics with plaster to conform to the Islamic ban on
worshipping idols. Now that the plaster has been removed,
we can marvel at Ayasofya not only for the beauty of the mosaics
themselves, but for the virtue of leniency that preserved them
from destruction.
From somewhere or other comes the sound of a military band. Bending
our steps toward the sound, we reach another landmark of the old
town: the Topkapi Palace. As if to boast of the grandeur
of the Ottoman Empire, the band marches with rather exaggerated
stiffness and expressionless faces. This was the first palace
built after the Ottoman Empire conquered Constantinople, and within
its walls, twenty kings of Turkey have enjoyed the prosperity of
the Empire.
Meeting the scions of the Silk Road
When our steps become heavy from tracing the shadows of history,
we head for the place where you can find everything that Turkey
has to offer: the bazaar. In Istanbul, once the end of the
Silk Road, a trip around the market is a pleasure not to be missed.
Markets are plentiful in Istanbul, but the largest is the Grand
Bazaar, a market covered over by an enormous roof. If you
venture inside, where alleys branch out endlessly in all directions,
you’d better be prepared to lose your bearings. In
the 4,000 stalls of this market are innumerable articles ranging
from jewelry to carpets, leather, clothing, antiques, and all manner
of gifts and souvenirs. Even if you don’t specifically
plan to buy anything, you can feel a new energy just by wandering
around the alleys at leisure. It’s an ideal opportunity
to appreciate the skillful salesmanship of the fast-talking merchants,
true scions of the Silk Road. Somewhat less e xtravagant
than the Grand Bazaar is the Egyptian Bazaar. Famous for
its spices it is also known as the Spice Market. Here, behind
Yeni Mosque in the vicinity of Galata Bridge the strong colors
of the spices grab your eyes while their powerful fragrances tickle
your nose.
From the market, we move to the pier. Istanbul’s pier
is always packed with people, but especially so in the early morning
when people are heading to work. To survey the unique geographical
conditions that have made Istanbul the center of much of ancient
western history, you better get on a boat. As the blue waves
begin to sparkle with twilight and the lights of the Blue Mosque
slowly begin to reflect across waves, evening descends softly on
a place where past and present, East and West, Christian and Muslim,
come together as one: Istanbul.
Travel Information
Country Code: 90
Area code: 212
Population: Approximately 12 million
Climate
In winter there are many overcast days and considerable snowfall. Although
the temperature does not usually drop below zero. The cold
weather continues until April, and from May it starts to get hot. In
summer the temperature often rises above 30C, and the coastal areas
around Istanbul is hot and sultry. The autumn is somewhat
cooler than in Korea.
Transportation
In Istanbul, the things to see are mainly clustered in the old
town around the Sulatanahmet area. Here you can find a
place to stay and walk to the nearby tourist attractions, but
if you would also like to see the new town and neighboring areas,
it’s convenient to use the Tramvay or the local bus service. The
Tramvay is streetcar system running from Eminonu Pier to the
old town, and it has become even more popular since the line
was extended to the new town as well. There are several
lines mostly running along the roads, though a few stations are
underground. The principal stations are Eminonu and Bayazit
in the old town, and Taksim.
Hotels
The Four Seasons
This upscale hotel was created out of an old building that had
formally been a prison. It is difficult to develop large
hotels in Sultanahmet, but the Four Seasons is an exception. The
guest rooms are spacious and command beautiful views over the
old town.
Tel: 90-212-638-8200, www.fourseasons.com
Ciragan Palace Hotel Kempinski
Once the home of the last Sultan of the Ottoman Empire, this is
the only hotel on the European side of the Bosphorus. It
is divided into two parts, the Sultan’s Palace and the Deluxe
Hotel. It is particularly noted for its seaside walks and
its independent outdoor space, including the royal gardens.
Tel: 90-212-326-4646, www.ciraganpalace.com
Sultanahmet Palace Hotel
This hotel is designed in the royal Ottoman style. The guest
rooms don’t have baths, but the hotel has a mini hammam [an
Islamic-style bath house] made of marble, and in winter the marble
floor is heated
Tel: 90-212-458-0460, www.sultanahmetpaalace.com
Taksim Square Hotel
Some of the rooms at this hotel look out over Taksim Square and
the Bosphorus. The first-floor café makes a convenient
meeting place, and the restaurant on the top floor has stunning
views.
Tel: 90-212-292-6440, www.squarehotel.com
Hotel Para Palas
Built in 1892, this historic hotel is particularly famous for the
celebrities who have stayed here. It was here that Agatha
Christie wrote Murder on the Orient Express.
Tel: 90-212-251-4560 , www.parapalas.com
The Ritz-Carlton, Istanbul
Located in the upscale Dolmabahce neighborhood, the Ritz-Carlton
is divided into a business center and a hotel. The salon
is a good place to enjoy tea while gazing over the Bosphorus.
Tel: 90-212-334-4444, www.ritzcarlton.com/hotels/istanbul
Restaurants
Mozaik Café
Here you can taste the palace cuisine of Ottoman Royalty. In
the summer, outdoor seating is quite popular, while in the winter,
most people prefer the basement café bar.
Tel: 90-212-412-4177
Haci Baba
This is good place to try a variety of Turkish dishes. The
begendi Kebab and Tandur Kebab are particularly tasty. To
get there follow Istiklal Avenue south from Taksim Square.
Tel: 90-212-244-1886
Orient House
At this restaurant in the Bayazit area you can watch a floor show
while enjoying your evening meal. Programs include traditional
Turkish music and dance and costume shows, and you can find out
about them by asking at the reception desk of the hotel where
you are staying. If you make a reservation through the
internet you can receive a 10 percent discount and complimentary
champagne.
Tel: 90-212-517-6163, www.orienthouseistanbul.com
Rumeli Café
With its diverse menu and its unique interior modeled after ancient
remains, this café in Sultanahmet has a special atmosphere.
Tel: 90-212-512-0008
Konyali Pastanesi
This bakery has a good reputation among the locals for its cookies
and cakes. Just inside the entrance is a fast food corner.
Tel: 90-212-513-9610
Saray Muhallebisi
Located on Istiklal Avenue, this historic cookie chops is named
after its specialty, the delicious saray muhallebisi.
Tel: 90-212-292-3434
Beyti
Boasting a 50-year history, this landmark of Istanbul is said to
be visited by every celebrity in the world at least once in their
lives. It has a modern ambience but specializes in the savory
flavors of traditional Turkish cuisine.
Tel: 90-212-663-2290, www.beyti.com
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