If Naegeumgang, the Inner Diamond Mountains, is considered a feminine
presence, Oegeumgang in the eastern part of Mt. Geumgangsan, is looked upon as a
masculine manifestation with imposing alpine features, including Manmulsang and
Guryong Falls. With Birobong Peak at the center, the Outer Diamond Mountains
comprise a series of peaks knuckled south and north along the adjacent
Haegeumgang Seashore. This region is subdivided into eleven areas, including
Guryongyeon Falls, Manmulsang, Sujeongbong and Eunseondae, each with a famous
landmark. Sujeongbong, Ongnyeobong, and other peaks and rock formations boast
their fantastic features above mysterious Guryongyeon Pool and Hanhagye Valley,
both with numerous waterfalls, pools, and brooks. Currently, the areas of
Guryongyeon Pool and Manmulsang are open to tourists.
• Guryongyeon
Falls Area
The valley path around Guryong Falls unfolds an
intoxicating magic of natural wonders and cultural spots. There is the site of
Singyesa Temple, built in 519 during the Silla Kingdom. Unfortunately, except
for the three-story stone pagoda and stone stupas, the other buildings and
treasures in the temple compound were ruined during the Korean War. Angjidae, a
huge rock bed in Ongnyudong Valley, is a spot to enjoy a 3D panorama. The
resplendent seasonal changes of Ongnyudong Valley, especially the autumnal
scenery, have inspired many writers and artists from days of yore. Yeonjudam,
the Twin Pearl Pool, is two huge pearls strung together. Bibong Falls features
water cascading 139 meters down over its striated cliff, creating multiple
feathery, white torrents that resemble a phoenix about to take flight.
•
Guryong Falls
After crossing the Bridge above Bibong
Falls, visitors soon encounter the breathtaking Guryong Falls. At a height of 74
meters, this is one of three famous waterfalls in Korea, together with Bagyeon
Falls in Gaeseong and Daeseung Falls in the Seoraksan Mountains. The cliff is a
huge single block of granite and water roars into the 13-meter- deep Guryongyeon
Pool. From a distance, it appears like a long silk scarf scattering spangles of
white beads against the granite cliff and jagged backdrop. On the rock face is
engraved in intaglio 3.6 meters wide and 19 meters high the three characters
Mi-reuk-bul, meaning Buddha of the Future. The great calligrapher Kim Gyu-jin
did this in 1919.
• Sangpaldam Pools
Above and
west of Guryong Falls are the Sangpaldam Pools. Guryongdae Cliff above the
Guryong Falls commands breathtaking scenery below, where small and large
jade-green pools are strung like a beaded necklace along the mountain base. Of
the bejeweled pools, eight larger ones on the upper reach of the valley are
called Sangpaldam, the Eight Upper Pools. Anyone who sees the crystalline water
flowing down on these eight pools in these picturesque surroundings will not
doubt the beautiful legend of a bathing fairy and a woodcutter intertwined with
emerald pools. The gathering water in the last pool then finally forms the
torrents of the Guryong Falls.
An old legend tells that heavenly fairies,
mesmerized by the mountain's terrestrial wonders and clean water, flew on a
rainbow to earth, enjoyed the beautiful surroundings, and bathed in the
Sangpaldam Pools. It is said they would dress by the mortar-like stones, Ongnyeo
Sedubun on Guryongdae Cliff, then fly back where they came from.
A poor
bachelor woodcutter lived at the foot of Geumgangsan. One day as he was chopping
away, a deer being chased by a hunter appeared and tearfully implored him for
help. The woodcutter hid the frightened deer in a bundle of firewood and sent
the hunter off in a wrong direction.
In thanks, the deer told of the day
that the fairies would come down from heaven to Sangpaldam Pools. The deer
suggested that the woodcutter hide the celestial robe of one of the fairies so
she could not fly. She would then become his wife. But the deer warned him
strongly never to return her the robe until they had at least three children.
With a deep bow the deer then vanished.
On that special day, the
woodcutter went to the mountain with an A-frame on his back, cut a bundle of
firewood earlier than usual, and hid near the Pools. Shortly after noon, an
iridescent rainbow spun through the sky and beautiful fairies wrapped in misty
cloud and fluttering wisps of celestial robes landed on the broad stone
platform. Hanging their garments over tree branches, they washed and frolicked
in the crystal water. With bated breath the woodcutter silently poached one of
the robes and slipped it into a rock crevice.
As dusk fell the fairies
had not noticed the passage of time. They quickly dressed and ascended, but the
one with no robe was left behind. The bachelor gave her his jacket and brought
her home. Attracted to the handsome, warmhearted woodcutter, the fairy became
his wife. As time passed the couple had a beautiful son and daughter, and
feeling it was time to tell his wife the truth, the woodcutter confessed to
hiding the robe. When he returned it the fairy wife immediately felt an
irresistible yearning for her home. Donning the robe and holding one child in
each arm, she floated up to heaven.
Heartbroken, the woodcutter passed
his days with grief. One day the deer reappeared and told the woodcutter how to
meet his wife again. Since that fateful day, the fairies had been drawing water
from Sangpaldam Pools with a bucket. The deer told the woodcutter to ride up the
bucket to heaven and be reunited with his family, and he did.
He was
overjoyed. Gradually, though, the woodcutter became homesick for Geumgangsan. He
missed the kaleidoscopic landscapes as flowers bloom and wither, as clouds come
and be swept away by wind, as the four seasons stir his five senses, and many
more things dear to his heart. The fairies tried to dissuade him from going to
earth, but eventually he found a way to bring his wife and children home so they
could enjoy again the mountain views he missed so
much.
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• Manmulsang
Area
This covers mountainous terrain and
valleys, including Hanhagye Valley where Onjeongcheon Hot Springs are located.
The area is wedged between the northern ridges connecting Mt. Obongsan and
Sujeongbong Peak and the southern series of peaks stretching from its central
Gwaneumbong Peak. The name Manmulsang, Stone Images of Ten Thousand Things,
derives from the amazing assortment of distinct and jutting stone images, some
sharp as a dagger, others like serene Buddha. This place is truly unique in the
world.
The thousands of stone figures of Manmulsang may whisper as you
pass. Images include Gwimyeonam, or the Demon-Faced Rock, with a trail below
leading to a tall Samseonam, or Rocks of Three Immortal Hermits. A single column
standing across from Samseonam is Dokseonam, the Lone Immortal Hermit Rock; next
to it is the 30 meter-tall Chilcheungam, the Seven-Story Pagoda Rock; facing it
is Jeolbuam, the Rock Trace-axed by the Woodcutter. Over the steep trail beyond
it awaits Geumgangmun, the granite Diamond Gate, and passing beyond that is
Cheonseondae, the Cliff of Heavenly Fairies. Probably the feature most familiar
to Koreans is Cheonseondae Cliff, with its commanding view of the endless sharp
ridges and the Stone Images of Ten Thousand Things. Nearby is Mangyangdae Cliff,
which commands an unobstructed view of Cheonseondae Cliff, the entire range of
valleys and cliffs, Goseong Port, and the cobalt blue East Sea.
•
Haegeumgang Area
Haegeumgang, or Sea Diamonds, comprises the region
around Samilpo Lake, Haegeumgang Seahore with its saw-tooth rocks plunging
skyward along the East Sea coast, and the Tongcheon area, site of the famous
Chongseokjeong Pavilion. The coastline wavers drunkenly, strewn with endless
islets topped with yellow pines. Jutting rock poles, some jagged and some
smooth, are weathered by wind, rain, and crashing brine. It creates a most
unusual shorescape. The bus trip to Samilpo Lake will show you some North
Koreans walking or riding bicycles or an ox-cart, residences, schools and
students and various buildings. This trip course is the most favorite with
tourists because they can catch a glimpse of the lifestyle of the North Korean
people.
• Haegeumgang Seashore
These shorescapes
begin at Namgang Estuary four kilometers east of Samilpo Lake. The overland
ridges of Geumgangsan submerge into the estuary and then reappear dramatically
above the churning brine. This is amazing scenery with its weird-shaped rocks
and fantastic columns topped with old pines, translucent emerald blue water
revealing schools of fish under undulating waves, silver beaches, and sleepy
fishing villages-really, really pretty. The Sea Diamonds are so close to the
Demilitarized Zone that on a clear day the Goseong Unification Observatory in
South Korea can be seen.
• Samilpo
Lake
The name Samilpo comes from three famous
knights of the elite youth corps of the Silla Kingdom (57 BC - AD 935) who were
enchanted by the lake’s scenic beauty and lingered three days. Vast and glassy,
Samilpo Lake is fringed with pine trees at water’s edge and mirrors the
surrounding lush mountains, like you might see in an Oriental folding-screen
painting. Including Waudo, four islets float upon the lake. Not only from the
lakeside, Bongnaedae Rock and Yeonhwadae Pavilion, views are unforgettable. At
Yeonhwadae can be seen North Korean villages and sky-piercing peaks, gently
overlapping contours in the distance, and in the east, craggy small and large
treecapped islets beyond the lake are sprinkled across the peaceful East Sea.
Here along the esplanade many a dream has become an everlasting memory
•
Chongseokjeong Pavilion
The day one first sets eyes upon the site
of Chongseokjeong Pavilion is like a visit to heaven. To the north, the
Haegeumgang offer extraordinary rock formations rising singly or in clusters
with rectangular, pentagonal, hexagonal, octagonal, and other polygonal shapes
more than one can imagine. Some stand tall like a giant, some recline, and some
seem to kneel. A36-kilometer drive north along the seaside road from Goseong
Port brings us to Chongseokjeong Pavilion.
A magnificent pavilion used
to mark this spot, and even though it is long gone the name lived on. Eons of
weather have cracked and divided immense sections of basaltic rock into these
dark-gray columns, including the spectacular Four Towers. Pine trees rooted in
the rock chasms or balancing on the columns add refinement to the masterpiece.
The glorious sunrise here should not be missed. Unfortunately, this area is not
yet open to tourists.
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Demographics
